Edward Crutchley’s Spring 2022 collection is akin to a visual essay on the history of queer culture in London, from the 18th century to the present day.
Every look in the collection reflected his research into how the community has found ways to express their love of life and strive for freedom. He even shared a playlist at the end of the show’s notes for those who want to gain a comprehensive understanding of the topic.
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Crutchley chose this theme because he believes the world doesn’t get a nicer place.
âI think there’s a general shift to the right, and I think it’s still dangerous. There is more pressure on queer culture than ever before. We have a responsibility to express ourselves and show the beauty of our community. I think reflecting on the past is always important for the future, âhe said.
Three stories underground in Islington, in a space that seemed fit for a rave party, the show began with a laser display before a male model raced down the runway wearing a period bodice and dramatic skirt with train .
For him, the peacock style and cross-dressing are strong elements of queer culture.
Volume is another key universe for the collection. Crutchley is known for fabric handling as he has been helping Kim Jones source all kinds of fabrics from Louis Vuitton and Dior Men for almost a decade. But this time, he wanted to experiment with different silhouettes.
Along with the black, white and gold patterned brocade opening court dress and the green lurex version closing the show, there were plenty of volume iterations for a modern lifestyle. Oversized draped bomber jackets, a brushed mohair sweater dress and a monochromatic logo donkey jacket. There were also simple tank tops, boxer shorts and mini dresses made with the same luxurious fabrics for a relaxed and hassle-free evening.
He noted that historical styles are not just replicas. They are also very modern in their cut, with all the seams placed in a contemporary position.
Launch gallery: Edward Crutchley RTW Spring 2022